Perfil de thelondonfoodie

All Pictures at The London Foodie
(http://www.thelondonfoodie.co.uk/2010/06/fish-and-chips-c...)

Fish and Chips have got to be one of the main reasons why I love this country so much. A fresh, chunky piece of cod deep fried in a light, crisp batter, served with hand cut chips and smothered in plenty of salt and vinegar gets my vote every time.

Interestingly, our national dish was introduced in the UK by Portuguese Jews, with the first ever chippy being opened in 1860 by a Jewish immigrant called Joseph Malin in the East End of London. The Portuguese love of all things deep fried also resulted in the introduction of tempura to Japan.

I admit I had an unfounded prejudice against Canteen – I am not sure if it was because of the sleek Wagamama-like decor, or the fact that it is now a mini-chain of four restaurants across London. But when I was invited by Jenny of Sauce Communications to an evening of “Fish and Chips” at the Baker Street branch, I decided to give it a try.

The event was hosted by Canteen’s co-founder and head chef Cass Titcombe, the author of “Great British Food”. Cass shared some of his top tips on how to prepare “Fish and Chips”, including his own batter recipe, how he fries the fish, advice on the type of potatoes to use and how to prepare chips.

All the fish used at Canteen is purchased from responsible and ethical South Coast day boats, and hence fish availability varies daily. “Fish and Chips” is priced between £10.50 and £13.50 depending on the catch of the day; these are normally cod, haddock or plaice.

We had cod and pollack deep fried in batter and also a fillet of plaice prepared in breadcrumbs. The batter was light, crisp and not greasy, and both fish were chunky and fresh tasting. Interestingly, the plaice in breadcrumbs was the most popular choice across the table.

Maris Piper is Cass’ potato of choice and his chips are double fried before being served. The chips did not disappoint – they were crisp on the outside but deliciously fluffy inside, and I could have eaten twice as many as there were on my plate.

To accompany our main courses, we were served traditional mushy peas @ £3.50. Cass added bicarbonate of soda to the marrowfat peas which were soaked for 12 hours thus helping them to retain their beautiful green colour. The tartare sauce was freshly made on the premises, tasted excellent and was a real step up from its jar equivalent.

Perusing the food menu, I was impressed to see that Canteen is an “All Day Dining” restaurant, serving breakfast through lunch, tea and dinner. In addition to “Fish and Chips”, the menu includes other British classics like “Devilled kidneys on toast” 7.25, “Steak and Chips” £16.75 (28-day aged, free range 250g rib-eye steak) and “Eton Mess” @ £5.50 among other old time favourites.

The drinks menu is well thought out and reasonably priced with wine bottles starting from £12.50. There are 5 wine options below the £20 mark in each of the white and red categories. In keeping with the British theme, three types of Meantime beers (one of my favourite London brewers) are sold on draught and are priced between £3.70 and £3.95 per pint.

Cost: this was a complimentary meal but I have quoted prices of all dishes I had. I estimate that a 3-course meal would cost in the region of £25 excluding drinks i.e. pint of prawns £7 + fish and chips £12.50 + Eton mess @ £5.50.

Likes: no-fuss British cooking, fresh, good quality ingredients, reasonably priced food & wine menus and Meantime beers on draught.

Dislikes: in my personal opinion, the decor is somewhat bland and impersonal.

Verdict – Good quality, comforting British dishes at reasonable prices in four London locations. Canteen is helping to make British cooking an appealing eating out option for locals and visitors alike. Recommended.

All Pictures at The London Foodie
(http://www.thelondonfoodie.co.uk/2010/07/london-restauran...)

A restaurant specialising in udon noodles, also known in Japan as an “Udon-ya” (“ya” translates as “shop”), Koya recently opened in Soho’s Frith Street to much acclaim. As in the Japanese Udon-ya (s), the noodles are freshly made on the premises with wheat flour imported from Japan, and traditional methods are used to produce the highly prized springy texture.

Such traditional methods are very laborious, taking up many hours and include various intricate steps in the process. At one stage called “ashibumi” the dough is kneaded by foot. Udon is thought to have originated in the Kagawa Prefecture (modern Sanuki Province) in the southern island of Shukoku in Japan. It is Japan’s thickest noodle, while somen is the thinnest. Soba and ramen noodles are more commonly known in the West; they fall between the two in thickness.

Owned by John Devitt, the restaurant has two Japanese head chefs who worked at Kunitoraya, another popular Udon-ya in Paris. All the staff (apart from John!) are Japanese , which helps to create a very authentic feel to the restaurant. The menu is printed on large wooden plaques on the wall, with the house speciality options being “Atsu-Atsu” (hot udon in hot broth), “Hiya-Atsu” (cold udon with hot broth) and “Hiya-Hiya” (cold udon with cold sauce to dip).

I liked the simple décor, the cream walls and the use of light wood throughout. On my visit, I was fortunate enough to be able to chat a little with John, who explained that the beautiful square floor tiles were found under a layer of carpet from the previous owners (Koya occupies the premises of Alistair Little’s former restaurant).

In Japan udon noodles are eaten mainly at lunch time by youngsters and students as a budget sustaining dish, while older diners tend to avoid it especially in the evenings as it is considered somewhat heavy. I love them in a hot broth in winter, but for the cold options (Hiya-Hiya) I would favour either somen or soba noodles like in “zaru-soba”. “Zaru” style noodles (served on a sieve-like bamboo tray – zaru), served with “mentsuyu” (dipping sauce) and a selection of “yakumi” (toppings) is one of my favourite Japanese summer dishes.

In Brazil, my Japanese grandmother (“O-baa-chan”) used to prepare her own “zaru somen” by quickly dipping them in iced water after cooking, draining and serving them with a mixture of soya sauce and freshly squeezed lime. It was an incredibly simple, light and refreshing dish and we all used to look forward to summer and to my “O-baa-chan’s” zaru somen.

To better appreciate the base stock (dashi broth) without interference from other ingredients, John suggested I should try one of his simplest menu items, and so I opted for Atsu-Atsu Kizame (hot udon with hot broth with toppings of fried tofu and spring onion) @ £7.50. The broth had an intense but gentle and clean flavour which I thoroughly enjoyed. The noodles were perfectly cooked, slightly chewy and with an excellent texture - a perfect bowl of dashi broth and homemade udon noodles.

Dr G decided to go for Hiya-Atsu Kamo (cold udon with hot broth and duck) @ £9.50. Again this was excellent, and beautifully presented. The duck was very tender and gave a deliciously meaty character to the dashi broth.

The “Buta Kakuni” (braised pork belly with cider) @ £6 was one of my favourite dishes, and one that I cook often at home. I first learnt how to cook this dish from Reiko Hashimoto of Hashi Cooking - her recipe uses chunky pieces of belly pork very slowly cooked in a mixture of dashi, brown sugar, ginger, sake and soya sauce among other ingredients. In contrast, Koya’s version was braised in English cider which gave a delicious tartness to the meat and balanced the sweetness of the dish.

The “Hitokuchi Tempura” (tempura of cod wrapped in shiso leaves) @ £6 was also delicious. Mainly used as an accompaniment to sashimi, shiso is a herb I adore, and use it whenever I can in my Japanese cooking (see post/recipe here Shiso Pesto and Soba Noodles) – it has a very particular flavour and adds an amazing freshness to any dish.

Koya’s drinks menu has higher than average prices with half bottles of house wine starting at £11.50 (or £23 for a full bottle). I also felt that both the sakes and shochu on offer were overpriced, and the 50ml of plum wine £4 a pop exorbitant. Dr G had a Kirin beer £3.50 while I opted for hot Japanese tea @ £2.20 per individual pot. The tea was of good quality although no hot water refill was offered.

I first heard about Koya from Jen of Dashi Dashi, one of my favourite London food bloggers. Jen specializes in Japanese cooking and restaurants and her writing is superb. I visited Koya soon after it opened; the restaurant was relatively unknown and was almost empty. Since then I hear the restaurant has become very popular and has massive queues. As it takes no reservations I would suggest going either early in the evening or at lunch time if you can. Also there is a small counter in the kitchen where up to 6 people can be seated, and is a good spot to watch the chefs in action.

Cost: £38.48 including 12.5% service added to the bill or £19 per person (See menu here).

Likes: excellent dashi broth and homemade udon noodles, good green tea, and delicious pork belly in cider (buta kakuni).

Dislikes: overpriced drinks menu, 12.5% service charge added to the bill (not in keep with Japanese dining etiquette).

Verdict: Excellent quality, authentic udon with prices to match. Delicious pork belly and tempura, harmonious decor, and central location. There is definitely a premium to be paid for aforementioned quality/authenticity of food and drinks, this is not a “budget” food destination. Highly Recommended.

All Pictures at The London Foodie
(http://www.thelondonfoodie.co.uk/2010/08/brazil-festival-...)

Going to the Southbank brings back memories of my college days in London in the early 90's - I had no money, and like many other university students, I scraped a living working in bars, shops or doing odd jobs. The Royal Festival Hall became a regular haunt then because of its free Jazz on Fridays and other events, and also for its well priced pints and good cafeteria food.

Built in 1951 as an exhibition and music venue for post-war Britain, the Royal Festival Hall has been a focal point for music and cultural events in London ever since. Following a £91m refurbishment of the hall and surrounding area between 2005-07, the area has now been transformed and the Hall's 1950 features sympathetically restored.

The D & D London group of restaurants, of Quaglino's and Bluebird fame, joined forces in this project to create Skylon, a single space that incorporates a stunning raised cocktail bar, a fine dining restaurant and an all-day grill. The menu is modern European with a strong British influence.

As part of the Brazil Festival at the Southbank this summer, Jose Barattino (the award-winning head chef of Hotel Emiliano in São Paulo) was invited to Skylon to introduce his modern interpretation of some of Brazil's best loved dishes, and so I went there to meet him.

My student days are long behind me and now cocktails at Skylon is one of my favourite London things to do - the raised bar gives you a great view of the surrounding restaurant and the Southbank and Thames below; it is the perfect place to soak up the elegant atmosphere of the place and for people-watching. I was pleased to see a selection of Brazilian-inspired cocktails devised by Skylon's mixologists, and Barattino's accompanying bar food on the menu.

For cocktails, I went for "Delicia" which was made from Leblon cachaca (Brazilian sugar cane spirit), Chartreuse liquor and muddled fresh strawberries and lemon. Dr G opted for "Terra Samba", served in a snifter glass, it was also made from cachaca, passoa liquor, passion fruit and fresh lime. Both drinks were priced @ £10.50 and were exceptionally well executed with some vibrant flavours.

Rather like in Spain or Portugal, in Brazil alcohol is never drunk without food. The bar food at Skylon was an excellent representation of what is served in Brazil and included "Pastel de Bacalhau" (deep fried salt-cod dumplings), "Pao de Queijo com Pernil" (cheese bread with pulled pork), "Coxinha de Frango com Catupiry" (deep fried potato dumplings with shredded chicken and cream cheese), and "Torresmo" (Brazilian style crispy pork belly).

These dishes are ubiquitous in Brazil and found from the simplest ("boteco" bars) to the most expensive eateries in the country. It was interesting to see Barattino's take on such popular dishes, and appreciate these very familiar and delicious flavours in London.

On my visit during the first week of the Festival and whilst Barattino was resident at Skylon, only the fine dining menu was available to the public at £40 and £45 for two or three courses respectively. Surprisingly, the options were in my opinion less interesting than the ones from the Skylon Grill menu which were priced at £20 and £25 for two or three courses and only available a week later. To view Skylon Grill's menu, click here.

Dr G and I shared the two available options which were "Legumes Assados com Emulsao de Castanha do Brasil" (roasted vegetables with Brazil nut sauce) and "Cordeiro Assado com Especiarias Brasileiras, Quirera de Milho e Mel Nativo" (roasted lamb with Brazilian spices, corn meal and native honey).

Both dishes were beautifully presented and delicious with very distinctive flavours. I loved the corn meal which I ate many times in Brazil as a child (mingau de fuba). It is similar to soft polenta but has a strong corn flavour and coarser texture. It was a perfect accompaniment to the deliciously tender and well seasoned lamb. I found Barattino a highly talented chef - few can bring such modest ingredients into their cooking and make them taste good and feel right in a sophisticated dish like the one I had.

From the bar menu, I also ordered a "Escondidinho de Carne Seca" (Shredded jerk beef "hidden" under a layer of cassava cream gratin) @ £7.50. I love "cassava or manioc" which was brought to Brazil by Africans and the Portuguese in the 16th century and cannot recommend it enough as an alternative to potatoes. It makes for the most fantastic chips and mash. In this dish, the cassava is creamed and combines beautifully with the salty meat underneath. This is one of the dishes I make sure to eat whenever I visit Brazil.

For dessert, we had a "Torta de Banana com Sorbet de Açai" (warm banana torte with "Açai" sorbet). I love any desserts with bananas in it, but the real surprise for me was the Açai sorbet.

Açai is a berry from the Açai palm tree which grows abundantly in the Brazilian rainforest. It perishes within one day and is 10% skin/pulp and 90% seed, and therefore large quantities are required to make any useful quantity. It is rich in anti-oxidants and omega fats and is very nutrient dense. Many healthy claims are being made about Açai as a "super food" including weight loss but I would approach this with scepticism. It has a dark purplish colour and tastes like blueberries and chocolate.

To accompany our meal, we sampled a selection of "Miolo" wines from "Vale dos Vinhedos" in Brazil. "Vale dos Vinhedos" is in the southernmost Brazilian estate of "Rio Grande do Sul". It has a much cooler climate than other northern estates and it is where most Italians and Germans immigrating to Brazil settled. It is no surprise then that "Vale dos Vinhedos" is where the best Brazilian wineries are found.

Most European grapes are grown in "Vale dos Vinhedos" including merlot, cabernet sauvignon, pinot noir, and chardonnay. Miolo's sparkling wines follow the "Champenoise Methode" (second fermentation in bottle) and their wines have been garnering some national and international awards lately. These wines can only be purchased in the UK through Coe Vintners and Bibendum Wines. Miolo is considered to produce the best Brazilian wines, and is my wine producer of choice whenever in Brazil.

I was very pleased with my Brazilian meal at Skylon and for the opportunity to meet Jose Barattino who came out of the kitchen to introduce himself. He was incredibly enthusiastic about the opportunity to show his cooking in the UK, and was rather charming and unassuming.

Skylon Restaurant - http://www.skylonrestaurant.co.uk/
Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, London, SE1 8XX
(020) 7654 7800

Cost: £20 and £25 (Skylon Grill) or £40 and £45 (Skylon Restaurant) for two/three course meals. Cocktails are priced at £10.50. The Brazilian menu is only available until 5th September 2010.

Likes: fantastic cocktails, great location with one of the best views of London, classic 1950's elegance makes me feel like I am on the set of " A Single Man".

Dislikes: despite the comprehensive wine list, there are no bottles below £21.

Verdict: I can think of few London restaurants that would rise to the challenge of cooking fine dining Brazilian food with such aplomb. Skylon has got it right - from the cocktails, to the choice of wine and menu, and all at reasonable prices. I can't wait to return. Highly recommended.

All Pictures at The London Foodie
(http://www.thelondonfoodie.co.uk/2010/08/london-restauran...)

Having spent countless hours jogging, or idling my time drinking or walking along the South Bank, I have been pleased to witness the development of this formerly drab area of London in the last 15 years.

The area has much to offer and I was interested to hear that Tom Aikens had set up an open air restaurant on the roof of Somerset House this summer. The restaurant has received quite mixed reviews, and I was intrigued when an invitation arrived from their PR machine to join a bunch of food bloggers for dinner there.

Having just been to Tom’s Kitchen in Chelsea, I was surprised to see the simplicity of the restaurant menu being offered at the Terrace. Reassuringly short (and a tad overpriced), the menu includes only a few simple starters and main courses, and a selection of mostly British desserts.

Some of the starters we shared included “Coronation Crab Salad” £10.50, “Chicken Liver and Foie Gras Parfait” £13.50, and “Tartine of Red Onion and Aubergine Compote” @ £9.

My favourite starter was the “Coronation Crab Salad” with mango, toasted almonds and avocado. The crab tasted fresh, and the dish as a whole was deliciously creamy and rich.

The “Chicken Liver and Foie Gras Parfait” were equally good but I felt the portion was rather ungenerous @ £13.50. I also liked the non-fussy but honest presentation of Tom’s “Tartine of Red Onion and Aubergine” and enjoyed its simple flavours.

The best main course in my opinion was the “Hot Smoked Loch Duart Salmon” @ £17.50 with soft boiled egg, watercress and herb mustard vinaigrette. The salmon was lean and of top quality, and was balanced by the soft egg and the peppery watercress salad.

The “Beef Burger with Big Chips” £14.50 was the least successful of all main courses, while the “Grilled Paillard of Chicken” £16.50 with rocket salad and oven roasted tomatoes was well executed but again overpriced.

The Truffled Chips @ £6.50 were good, deliciously crisp and covered with truffle flavoured cheese.

We also shared a selection of three desserts all priced @ £8. They were rather large and equally delicious, and included “Poached Strawberries with Mint and Champagne”, “Eton Mess with Blackberry Coulis” and “”Mango Rice Pudding with Passion Fruit Custard”.

The Bar Menu also offers a few platters to share like “Charcuterie Board with Breads and Chutney” £22 and “Cheese Board and Biscuits” £18.50 which may be a better and more sociable option for after work drinks.

The drinks menu is equally short, with a few cocktail options in the £10 region, and six bottles each of white and red wines priced between £20 and £70. There is only one bottle of red wine (Australian Shiraz) below the £20 mark.

Cost: I was a guest of Tom’s Terrace, but I have quoted prices for all dishes I tried and estimate that a 3-course meal (excluding drinks and service) would cost around £35 per person.

Likes: one of the most coveted locations this summer, uncomplicated menu.

Dislikes: some food items are overpriced, limited wine options at a reasonable price.

Verdict: This is an attractive spot for summer drinks after work and a light bite to eat despite the higher than average prices. Recommended.

All Pictures at The London Foodie
(http://www.thelondonfoodie.co.uk)

Twenty-three Years of Spanish Food and Wine in London's Southbank

Meson Don Felipe, opened in 1987 on The Cut near Waterloo Station, was one of the first restaurants I visited in London nearly twenty years ago, and is one of the few I keep returning to after all these years.

A real Spanish institution, Meson Don Felipe is a great place for good and unpretentious tapas, live flamenco music and great atmosphere. The place is nearly always heaving - I love sitting by the bar, starting my evening with a chilled bottle of bone dry Manzanilla Sherry (‘La Goya’, Delgado Zuleta - £10.50 for ½ bottle) , and some "Almendras" (Toasted and salted marcona almonds) £3.50 and "Aceitunas" (Marinated Spanish olives) @ £3.25, while I peruse the tapas menu.

The menu has hardly changed in the 18 years I have been a patron but "daily specials" are always on offer so there are always a couple of new dishes that can be ordered on any visit.

Last month, I went back to Meson don Felipe with Dr G, one of my oldest friends Gary of StartSpace on Columbia Road (see blogroll), and his partner Pablo who is a Brazilian artist.

We ordered a selection of tapas which were as good as expected - hardly haute cuisine but tasty and the perfect accompaniment to the Spanish wine being ordered.

"Pescaditos Fritos" (Deep-fried whitebait) @ £4.95.

"Bacalao frito con alioli" (Deep-fried fresh cod with garlic mayonnaise) @ £5.75.

"Higaditos al jerez" (Chicken livers in Sherry sauce) @ £4.95.

"Patatas Riojanas" (Potatoes cooked with chorizo) @ £4.75.

"Champiñones con Setas" (Mixed mushrooms cooked in oil and garlic) @ £4.75.

"Habas con Jamon" (Broad beans with cured ham and mint) @ £4.95.

"Chorizo Castellana" (Hot and spicy Spanish sausage) @ £4.95.

"Jamon y Queso" (Plate of Spanish cured ham, manchego cheese, quince conserve and grapes) @ £5.95.

"Croquetas de atun" (Tuna fish croquettes) @ £4.95.

Meson Don Felipe's Spanish wine list is one of the most comprehensive I have encountered in London, and also one of the most reasonably priced - there are many choices of wine by the glass from £3.65 while bottles start at £13.25.

We ordered a 2005 Muga Reserva @ £26.75 which was a blend predominantly of tempranillo and garnacha, aged for 30 months in oak (6 months in large vats, and 24 months in small barrels), and had deliciously soft tannins, lovely dark berry fruits and a long finish. This was a complex and well balanced wine.

Meson Don Felipe is my place of choice whenever I go to the Young or Old Vic theatres or the Royal Festival Hall on the Southbank. It can get very busy, so I would recommend booking a table (tables can be booked until 8pm only) if more than two people are coming.

Alternatively sit by the bar and soak up the wonderful atmosphere while watching the staff and other customers going about their business. Service can be erratic at busy times and level of English spoken varies a lot - there have been times when I have not been able to book a table (even though I can speak Portuguese) as people taking the bookings could not communicate in English, but it is worth persevering.

Cost: Around £30 per person including food and Spanish wine.

Likes: wonderful live flamenco music, great atmosphere, and lovely food. Meson's wine list is excellent and very good value.

Dislikes: service can be erratic at busy times and English is not always tip top which some might say adds to the charm of the place.

Verdict: Meson Don Felipe is a real Spanish institution on London's The Cut, serving consistently good, unpretentious and familiar tapas dishes at reasonable prices. The Spanish wine list is also excellent. One of my London gems. I cannot wait to return.

Meson Don Felipe
53 The Cut
London, SE1 8LF
Tel: 020 7928 3237

From Gate to Plate – A New Dining Concept at Platform - Pics at The London Foodie

(http://www.thelondonfoodie.co.uk/2010/06/london-restauran...)

Restaurateur Tony McKinlay and farmer friend Barnaby Butterfield have joined forces to create Platform, a newly opened restaurant in London Bridge that promises to bring us the concept of “gate to plate” dining.

This partnership between farmer and restaurateur is novel and has potential benefits. In addition to cutting out wholesalers and hopefully passing on these savings to diners, it also guarantees that the consistent quality of their meat is maintained. Barnaby’s animals are free-range reared, butchered in-house and supplied exclusively to Platform.

The concept also minimizes waste as whole carcasses are made available to the head chef, Jake Tutill, giving him a greater choice over the cuts he can use and helping him to create a more varied and unusual menu.

The restaurant is located beneath an old railway arch on Tooley Street, below platform number one of London Bridge Station. Once a lap dancing club, it occupies two floors with the bar taking over the entire ground floor while the upper floor houses the dining area.

The restaurant is spacious and light with large glass windows, exposed brick walls, and an oversized mirror ball hanging from the arch above. It has a casual and non-fussy feel about it which I found reassuring.

Accompanying me on the evening was Denise, The Wine Sleuth who partnered the wines with the dishes we tried.

We started with “Potted shrimps, with lemon and toast” £6.50. The potted shrimps were deliciously buttery with intense flavours of mace and nutmeg, and a dash of heat from the paprika. I thoroughly enjoyed this dish and felt that at £6.50 it was very good value.

The “Asparagus and hollandaise sauce” @ £8 was the better of the two starters. The asparagus tasted fresh and was perfectly cooked.

The hollandaise sauce had been freshly made, and was rich but well balanced with tartness from the lemon juice. I rarely get excited about asparagus but this seasonal, English crop was sensational.

For main course, I had “Goose skirt steak, mushroom, tomato and bearnaise sauce” @ £14. I am a big fan of skirt or onglet beef steak, but had never tried it from goose. Skirt is the animal’s diaphragm, a working muscle and therefore with a tendency for toughness if not properly cooked.

The meat had been quickly seared and served rare; it had a dense and rich flavour which was well balanced by the slight sweetness and aniseed flavours of the tarragon in the bearnaise sauce. To accompany the steak I also ordered a portion of hand cut chips @ £3.50 which were delicious, crisp on the outside while fluffy inside.

The star of the evening was, undoubtedly, the “Devonshire Ruby Red Jacobs Ladder beef” @ £15. An old fashioned cut that is hard to come by (there are only two in the whole animal), it is a row of five or six ribs cut off the top to the fore ribs.

As with most meats cooked on the bone, the Jacob’s Ladder was utterly delicious – the meat was sweet, falling off the bone and the portion was enough to feed 3-4 people. I came to Denise’s rescue but we both struggled to get through the whole piece. I now understand why this cut is sometimes called the “oven buster” as it apparently swells as it cooks.

To finish off, we shared a couple of desserts “Bakewell tart with clotted cream” £5.50 and “Chocolate fondant, pistachio ice cream” £5.50. These were equally delicious, although after the Jacob’s ladder, I was starting to throw the towel in.

Our waitress Carolyn, whom we had met on Platform’s opening night, was a delightful hostess. She remembered us from the hundreds of people that were there on that busy launch; she was very friendly and knowledgeable about the menu and made our experience at Platform very pleasant.

I felt the wine list was well thought out, showcasing a range of different grapes from both new and old worlds starting from £17.75. For a full description of the wines tasted on the evening, check The Wine Sleuth site.

The food menu changes daily depending on available produce and has about six options each of starters, mains and pudding. Two-course and three-course menus are available for £18 and £22 respectively which I believe to be excellent value.

Cost: this was a complimentary meal but I have quoted prices of all dishes we tried. I estimate that a 3-course meal will cost in the region of £25 (excluding drinks).

Likes: unusual and flavoursome cuts of meat, good value and well thought out menu, expert cooking, good location, and very charming service.

Dislikes: the entrance and ground floor areas give the impression of a crowded City boozer like hundreds of other nearby establishments.

Verdict: Non-fussy, good quality food, beautifully cooked and at very affordable prices in Central London. An ideal place for an unusual but delicious cut of meat, fresh and organic produce and very charming service. Highly recommended.

Tukdin Flavours of Malaysia - Pics at The London Foodie

(http://www.thelondonfoodie.co.uk/2010/06/london-restauran...)

I am enjoying the 2010 Malaysian Kitchen Campaign a great deal. The opportunity to find out more about one of the most fascinating but relatively undiscovered Asian cuisines (and eat a lot of it in the process), right here in London, is an opportunity not to be missed.

I was lucky enough to have been involved in this campaign for the launch of the Malaysian Dining Card at Kiasu (reviewed here), and more recently as part of a “Malaysian restaurant tour” which included Awana, Satay House and Tukdin.

The event was organised to showcase what these restaurants will be offering at the Malaysian Section of this year’s Taste of London Festival.

Our final destination was at “Tukdin”, a charming little restaurant on Craven Road, Bayswater. The restaurant felt very Malay (as opposed to Hokkien-Chinese or Indian); the clientele appeared to be native, and wonderful smells of spices, coconut milk and grilled fish were wafting through the air as I came in.

It was nice to see entire Malay families eating together, and I could sense a delightful camaraderie among most customers who were probably regulars and clearly knew each other. Malaysia has three main ethnic groups – the Malays, Chinese and Indians. Since the Malays are predominantly Muslim, there was no alcohol or pork on the menu, and all the meat served was halal.

To kick off proceedings we had “Satay Goreng” (chicken served with peanut sauce) served off the skewer. The meat was sweet and had a delicious char-grilled flavour, and in my opinion, was the best “Satay” of the evening.

“Mee Goreng Mamak” (vegetarian fried noodles) was served next. The soft yellow noodles had a lovely richness, and a slight sweetness from the “kicap manis” (Malaysian sweet soy sauce). The noodles were stir-fried with chunky pieces of firm tofu and rice cakes and topped with ground peanuts and spring onions.

One of the best dishes was the “Ikan Rasa Khas” (sweet and sour sea bass). The fish had been cut up in chunky fillets, deep fried and topped with a delicious sweet and sour sauce made from tamarind and chillies.

I also enjoyed the “Daging Salai Masak Lemak Cili Api” (grilled beef in coconut sauce with lemongrass, turmeric and chilli). The combination of the creamy, sweet coconut milk with the tart lemongrass went particularly well with the grilled beef.

To accompany these main dishes, we had coconut and corn rice and Tukdin’s special mixed vegetables pickle called “Acar rampai”.

The “Kupang Berlada” (mussels in chilli sauce with lime leaves) was also excellent. I could taste a rich mix of flavours including pineapple, coconut milk and lime and with a touch of heat from the chillies. This was again a very good dish.

I enjoyed all three restaurants but felt that Tukdin was particularly special - the food was fantastic and great value, and I cannot wait to return. I would also like to revisit Awana for a more considered opinion. I strongly recommend trying some of these restaurants’ dishes available at Taste of Malaysia if you are planning a visit to Taste of London Festival this year (17 -20 June) in Regent’s Park.

Satay House - Pics at The London Foodie

(http://www.thelondonfoodie.co.uk/2010/06/london-restauran...)

I am enjoying the 2010 Malaysian Kitchen Campaign a great deal. The opportunity to find out more about one of the most fascinating but relatively undiscovered Asian cuisines (and eat a lot of it in the process), right here in London, is an opportunity not to be missed.

I was lucky enough to have been involved in this campaign for the launch of the Malaysian Dining Card at Kiasu (reviewed here), and more recently as part of a “Malaysian restaurant tour” which included Awana, Satay House and Tukdin.

The event was organised to showcase what these restaurants will be offering at the Malaysian Section of this year’s Taste of London Festival.

We were whisked away to our next stop, “Satay House” in Paddington. The restaurant is small and casual with a modern feel about it.

Our first round of main courses was served at this delightful restaurant, and in my opinion, one of the most successful dishes was the “Udang Galah Goreng” (king prawns fried in turmeric, chillies, lime leaves and coconut milk). The prawns were meaty but still soft and their richness was offset by the lime’s citric flavours and the delicate coconut milk.

The “Rendang Daging” (slow cooked beef in spices, herbs and coconut milk) was also noteworthy. I enjoyed the rich flavours of cinnamon, cloves and star anise infused in the very tender meat.

I love aubergines and so quite enjoyed “Terong Goreng Berlada” (aubergines stir-fried with ground chillies and shrimps) despite feeling that it was a little overspiced.

Less successful dishes were the “Satay” (chicken and lamb skewers served with a peanut sauce) and the “Kway Teow Goreng” (stir-fried flat rice noodles with seafood, egg and vegetables).

The former was slightly on the tough side whereas the noodles lacked the delicious combination of flavours that I have experienced from this dish elsewhere.

Josper Grilling at Chapters All Day Dining - Pics at The London Foodie

(http://www.thelondonfoodie.co.uk/2010/06/london-restauran...)

Over the last few years, Blackheath has become a foodie destination and a hub for some excellent dining. Places like Friday Food Club (one of my favourite London underground restaurants), the micro brewery Zero Degrees, Boulangerie Jade, and more recently Chapters All Day Dining are leading the way and showing sceptical North Londoners how expertly it can be done down South.

I am always surprised when I meet Londoners who haven’t heard of Blackheath despite it being only 12 minutes by train from London Bridge and one of the most picturesque spots in London. So when I was recently invited by Douglas Blyde of Intoxicating Prose to a Bloggers Dinner at Chapters in Blackheath with The Wine Sleuth, Greedy Diva, Eat Like a Girl, and London Eater, it didn’t take much persuasion for me to accept the invitation.

Sister to the Michelin starred restaurant Chapter One, Chapters All Day Dining is a more informal, brasserie style eatery, with an understated, casual feel about it – the decor is well thought out with exposed brickwork, wood flooring, large mirrors along its walls, and unobtrusive lighting. I enjoyed the informality of the dining rooms and felt instantly at ease in them.

Chapters All Day Dining is one of the 9 London restaurants, including Chapter One, to use a Josper oven for grilling all its steaks, some of the fish and seafood starters, and also desserts. An impressive piece of machinery invented in Spain over 35 years ago, the Josper (pronounced Hosper) is both an oven and grill, a “closed barbeque” made of insulating materials capable of withstanding temperatures of up to 1,000˚C.

This dual functionality helps the food to be cooked much faster than in traditional barbeques by allowing the unit to maintain high cooking temperatures for extended periods of time. It also greatly enhances the flavour of the foods being cooked by searing them on the outside, keeping the juices locked inside whilst giving an intense barbeque/smoky taste.

On this occasion, we had the pleasure of meeting the head chef Trevor Tobin and the restaurant manager Philip Urasala who accompanied us throughout the meal and introduced the wines being matched to each course.

To kick off proceedings, we were served an assortment of delicious starters from the restaurant’s new summer menu including:

“Josper baked mackerel, spiced puy lentils and aubergine, apple puree” £5.25 and “Baked scallops & chorizo, sweet chilli dressing, baby herb salad” £9.95 - these were both sensational; the fatty mackerel and scallops had a delicious and very noticeable smoky/barbecue flavour from the Josper

“Serrano ham, salad of rocket and goats cheese, grilled sour dough” £6.50 and “Terrine of potted ham hock and black pudding, Piccalilli, grilled sour dough” £5.95 – the terrine was deliciously spicy with hints of mace and nutmeg, and having the grilled sour dough served already buttered was also a nice touch.

“Salad of warm Kentish asparagus, poached egg & Hollandaise sauce” @ £6.50 and “Salad of chicory, pear, walnuts and blue cheese” £4.95 – both salads were very good but the combination of asparagus, poached eggs and Hollandaise sauce was my favourite.

“Risotto of wild garlic and crème fraiche” @ £5.25 – deliciously creamy, the rice had been perfectly cooked, remaining still slightly al dente. This was one of the best starters, and a real steal at this price.

The starters were sensational, and I suspect that the main courses on the menu, priced between £8.95 and £12.95, would have been equally good. But this restaurant’s raison d’être is its Josper grilled steaks, and to show us what Chapters is all about, Trevor served us a variety of different cuts of beef.

Our first was an 18-day dry aged Cumbrian Black Angus fillet steak, sourced from W. G Butchers in Smithfields. Beef fillet, despite being one of the tenderest cuts, is one I hardly ever cook or order – being the leanest part, it is also one of the least flavoursome. The meat had been cooked medium rare - it was also surprisingly tasty, and with a delicate seared crust on the outside. The Josper grilling had, as expected, given the meat an intense charcoal flavour. This is the most expensive meat item on the menu, priced at £23.95 for a 200g fillet steak.

The Australian, 40-day, dry aged Hereford rib-eye steak was served next. A much fattier cut, good quality rib-eye steaks usually show a good amount of marbling which also helps to make it one of the tastiest. Trevor cooked the rib-eye medium, caramelizing the outside whilst keeping the meat pink and succulent inside. At £19.95 for a 320g rib-eye steak (minimum 30-day wet age), this is the second most expensive cut on the menu.

The next meat being served was the English hanger steak, also known as skirt or onglet. Skirt steak is the animal’s diaphragm, a working muscle and therefore with a tendency for toughness if not properly cooked. Ideal for quick flash frying/grilling or for very slow cooking (braising), this is the cut of choice for many Chinese stir-fries, fajitas and Cornish pasties.

Chapters’ hanger steak had been quickly seared and was served rare. It had a dense texture and a deliciously rich flavour. Priced at £11.50, the 250g hanger steak is Chapters’ best value choice.

I really enjoyed the fillet and rib-eye steaks, and felt that the hanger steak was also excellent. The best however was still to come. We were next presented with a selection of various steaks, served on the bone, including porterhouse, t-bone, sirloin and rib-eye from both USA and UK in a like for like comparison.

Both the t-bone and porterhouse cuts have a fillet on one side and a sirloin on the other, with the main difference being that the porterhouse will have a larger fillet. The meats tasted deliciously sweet, probably due to their proximity to the bone, but also succulent and full of flavour.

The American steaks were USDA Prime Graded beef (United States Department of Agriculture). USDA Prime is the most superior grade, with Choice and Select being the second and third grades respectively. The USDA Prime steak has the highest degree of fat (much higher than its UK cousin), and is derived from younger animals.

I was highly impressed by the intensity of flavour of the USDA Prime cuts, and in my opinion, they tasted far superior to their UK equivalent. All premium steaks on the bone are priced at £4.50 per 100g and cost significantly less than Goodman’s equivalent priced at £6.25 per 100g.

The desserts are also well worth a mention, they were all excellent and well presented and ended the meal very nicely. These included:

“Warm treacle tart with clotted cream” @ £5.25.

“Valrhona chocolate fondant, raisin puree, caramelised walnut ice cream” @ £5.85.

“Coconut parfait, Josper baked banana, passion fruit sauce” @ £5.25.

A big thank you to Douglas, Trevor and Philip for inviting me to this event. For a more detailed description of the different cuts of beef, and a more technical perspective, have a read of the reviews by Kang (London Eater) and Carly (Greedy Diva).

Cost: this was a complimentary meal but I have quoted prices of all the dishes we tried. I estimate that a three course meal would cost in the region of £30 to £35 per person depending on the type of steak ordered (excluding service and drinks).

Likes: top grade meats, beautifully aged and packed with flavour, Josper grilling which greatly enhances flavour, reasonable prices and excellent wine list in a charming location. My recommendation would be a dry-aged, USDA Prime rib-eye steak on the bone cooked medium rare.

Dislikes: None.

Verdict: I cannot wait to return to Chapters All Day Dining and try more of their Josper Grilled steaks. I was very impressed and feel this is one of the best and most reasonably priced steak houses in London at the moment. Very highly recommended.

Pavilion Café - Victoria Park, E9 - Pics @ The London Foodie

(http://www.thelondonfoodie.co.uk/2010/06/london-best-inde...)

Dr G and I recently had a Saturday morning outing from Islington to Victoria Park, jogging along Regent’s Canal. Tired but exhilarated on one of the few beautiful summer days this year, we staggered to the refurbished lakeside Pavilion Cafe for a reviving breakfast.

The lovely glass rotunda is encircled by a mishmash of tables made from old wooden benches and chairs overlooking a splendid lake and fountain. Apart from the charming location, the real draw is the food which is a real cut above what you might expect in a public park.

Delicious dishes are written up on blackboard walls, with the likes of Eggs Benedict (with ham) £6.50 or Royale (with smoked salmon) £7, and variations on English breakfast. The ingredients are all well sourced (Ginger Pig meats, Monmouth coffees) and, where possible, organic.

The only downside is the place's popularity - on a sunny day it's invariably over-run. Fortunately, there are more seats next to the lake, so it's worth taking a numbered marker and waiting at one of the tables for your food to arrive.

Normally we go for the Eggs Benedict or Eggs Royale but on this occasion, we opted to try the cafe’s cooked breakfasts. I ordered a “Pavilion Breakfast” @£8 (fried egg, bacon, sausage, mushroom, roast tomatoes, home baked beans and toast).

Dr G had the “Farmhouse Breakfast” @£8.50 (2 eggs, bacon, sausage, black pudding, homemade beans and toast), with two steaming mugs of orange-brown coloured ‘builder’s tea’.

The breakfast options we chose were of course fairly standard however the quality of the ingredients made all the difference - the black pudding was richly flavoured, with a gamey, spicy quality while the bacon was thick, irregularly cut and with a pleasing texture.

The baked beans were homemade, with the skin of the yielding beans still in place, a delicious, richly concentrated and herby tomato sauce, thankfully lacking the artificial taste of the tinned equivalent. The tea was good and strong as befits this kind of breakfast.

Cost: £8 to £8.50 for the cooked breakfast + £1 per mug of builder’s tea.

Likes: great lakeside location, delicious homemade, organic produce and excellent brunch menu.

Dislikes: On a summer weekend, the place is packed, the kitchen and serving staff struggle to cope and service may vary from charming to plain rude.

Verdict: A wonderful venue for a lazy breakfast or brunch after a night on the tiles. The quality of ingredients is good with prices to match. Recommended.